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What to eat in Valencia: paella, horchata and the cooking of the huerta

Valencia is the birthplace of paella, and the authentic one contains chicken, rabbit, green beans, garrofó, tomato, saffron and rice, with no seafood. It is eaten at lunchtime. Beyond paella, try arròs a banda, all i pebre from the Albufera, horchata with fartons, the mid-morning esmorzaret and agua de Valencia, a cocktail created in 1959.

Updated September 27, 2026

The essentials in 60 seconds

Paella valenciana
Chicken, rabbit, green beans, garrofó, tomato, saffron, olive oil and rice. No seafood or chorizo.
When
Paella is a lunch dish; for dinner, tapas are a better bet.
Horchata
Made from tiger nuts (D.O. Chufa de Valencia), with fartons for dipping; the tradition is rooted in Alboraia.
Where to shop
Mercado Central, Colón, Russafa and El Cabanyal.

What goes into an authentic paella valenciana?

The traditional paella valenciana contains rice, chicken, rabbit, flat green beans (ferraura), garrofó (a large white bean), tomato, olive oil, paprika, saffron, water and salt. Some versions add rosemary, snails or artichoke in season. What it does not contain is seafood, chorizo, onion or peas: that is a different rice dish.

It is cooked in a wide, shallow pan, and the rice should be loose, with a toasted layer on the bottom, the socarrat. It is a lunchtime dish: restaurants usually serve it for a minimum of two people, and it takes about 20–30 minutes to cook.

Be wary of signs with photos of bright yellow paellas in the most touristy areas. To eat it well, look for rice restaurants in El Palmar, in the Albufera, or on the seafront promenade.

Other rice dishes and plates to try

DishWhat it isWhere
Arròs a bandaRice cooked in fish stock, served with allioliRice restaurants on the seafront
Arròs negreRice with cuttlefish inkBeach restaurants
Arròs al fornOven-baked rice with pork ribs, black pudding and chickpeasTraditional eateries in the centre
FideuàLike a fish paella, but made with short noodles (born in Gandia)Coastal restaurants
All i pebreEel stew with garlic and paprikaEl Palmar, in the Albufera
EsgarraetRoasted red pepper with salt cod and garlicTapas bars

Horchata and fartons

Valencian horchata is made from tiger nuts (chufa), a tuber grown in the farmland north of the city that has its own designation of origin. It is drunk ice-cold with fartons, long glazed buns that you dip into it. Alboraia, next to Patacona beach, is the place with the most tradition; in the centre there are historic horchaterías dating back to the 19th century.

The esmorzaret: Valencia's mid-morning meal

In the middle of the morning, between 10:00 and 12:00, Valencians have their esmorzaret: a generous sandwich (omelette, meat with peppers, cuttlefish…), with olives and peanuts to nibble and a drink, finished off with a cremaet, coffee with flamed rum. It is a deeply rooted custom and a cheap way to eat well in any neighbourhood bar.

Sweets and drinks

  • Agua de Valencia: cava, orange juice, vodka and gin. It was created in 1959 at the old Cervecería Madrid.
  • Pumpkin buñuelos: fritters eaten with hot chocolate, above all during Fallas.
  • Oranges: in season, from November to May, the ones from the Valencian huerta are at their best.
  • Wines: the Valencia and Utiel-Requena designations of origin, an hour from the city.

Markets to eat and shop

The Mercado Central is the big fresh-produce market, with stalls where you can grab a bite; the modernista Mercado de Colón has been turned into a space for cafés and restaurants; and Russafa and El Cabanyal are neighbourhood markets. Our self-guided route of markets and Valencian flavours links them in a walk.

Food plans on the calendar

Tastings, markets and food fairs already on our calendar.

Frequently asked questions

What goes into paella valenciana?

Rice, chicken, rabbit, flat green beans (ferraura), garrofó, tomato, olive oil, paprika, saffron, water and salt; optionally rosemary, snails or artichoke. It has no seafood or chorizo: rice with seafood is a different dish, which in Valencia is usually called paella de marisco.

Can you eat paella for dinner in Valencia?

You can, but it is not traditional: paella is a lunchtime dish and many rice restaurants only serve it at midday. For dinner, Valencians usually go for tapas or an esgarraet with bread.

Where to drink horchata in Valencia?

Alboraia, next to Patacona beach, is the area with the most tradition, with horchaterías beside the tiger-nut fields. In the centre there are historic horchaterías near the Mercado Central and Plaza de Santa Catalina. Order it with fartons.

What is agua de Valencia?

A cocktail of cava, orange juice, vodka and gin. It was created in 1959 by Constante Gil at the Cervecería Madrid in central Valencia, at the request of some customers who wanted something different. It is served in a jug, for sharing.

Official sources

Figures and timetables checked against these sources. If anything has changed, the official source prevails.

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